Mouclade and éclade de moules: two essential culinary traditions in Charente-Maritime

La Rochelle
Food Lovers

With autumn drawing to a close and winter fast approaching, there's nothing better than indulging in delicious , authentic, and comforting dishes that warm both heart and soul. In Charente-Maritime, it's the perfect season to enjoy mussels, the undisputed stars of Charente cuisine ! For a change from the traditional moules marinières and moules à la crème, two regional specialties will delight your taste buds during your next stay on the Charente coast. Don't miss them!

Mussels, a specialty of the Charente coast

Charentaise mussel stew, a dish that simmers in the kitchen!

It's not easy to find the right places to enjoy the famous Charente mouclade! While most restaurants on the Charente coast offer classic mussels with curry, my search for one of the best mouclade recipes inevitably leads me to Bar André on the Old Port of La Rochelle.

Bar André, a La Rochelle institution!

Founded in the early 20th century by André Bourcereau in a fishing district opposite the fish market, the restaurant on Rue St Jean du Pérot was taken over by Georges Bourdin in 1947. With a few friends, he bought the establishment and immediately began offering simple cuisine based on shellfish and fresh fish unloaded directly from the fishing boats. Success was immediate, and the restaurant continued to expand to meet the demand of gourmets and seafood lovers. In 1981, Georges Bourdin's son, Jacques, took over after training at Lasserre in Paris and developed the unique style of the restaurant we know today: a warm fishermen's haunt with the feel of a grand Parisian brasserie. Managed since 2016 by the Bertrand Group, the historical heritage and authentic culinary legacy of Bar André are preserved and remain intact to this day.

The famous mussel stew from Bar André

To discover the recipe for mouclade, we head to the kitchen. They're not about to reveal the secrets of such a fragrant and flavorful dish, which has been on the menu for 60 years. However, I've been invited to join them and follow the preparation of the mouclade, respecting the Charente tradition as much as possible.

To make a mouclade, the quality and freshness of the mussels are paramount. Bar André's choice? Plump bouchot mussels from "La Charron," sourced directly from the Bay of Aiguillon, near La Rochelle, bringing the bounty of the sea to the plate. The chef's personal touch? A skillful blend of spices —old-fashioned curry, turmeric, and saffron-infused spigol—the proportions of which remain a mystery. These exotic spices may seem unfamiliar to the Charente region, yet they represent a historical culinary heritage of the port of La Rochelle, brought back by the sailors and merchants who once disembarked their ships upon returning from maritime expeditions.

The spices of the mouclade

In the chef's presence, I discover the steps involved in preparing this mussel stew, with its delicious briny and aromatic flavors that my taste buds will long remember. Here is the exclusive recipe for Bar André's mussel stew !

INGREDIENTS (for 4 people)

2.5 kg of Bouchot Mussels;
200g of shallots;
2 sprigs of thyme;
2 bay leaves;
1L of white wine from the Charente region;
6 cl of Pineau des Charentes;
60g of fresh garlic;
60cl of liquid fresh cream;
80g of unsalted butter;
Curry;
Turmeric ;
Spigol.

PREPARATION

Sort and wash the mussels, scraping off any small barnacles clinging to the shell.
Prepare the sailor shirt:

Sweat the shallots and garlic in sweet butter;
Deglaze with Charentais white wine;
Add the thyme and bay leaf;
Cook over low heat for 10 minutes;
Add the mussels at the end of cooking and make them open quickly by covering them.

Remove the mussels from their shells, placing them on a plate and setting aside.

The cream of the crop of mouclade

Reduce the cooking juices, then add cream.
Add the spices and cook over low heat until it reaches a "nappe" consistency (dip a spoon in the sauce, make a line with your finger on the back of the spoon, the line should be clear).
Add the Pineau, butter, adjust the seasoning and pass through a fine sieve.
Pour the boiling sauce over the mussels.

The mouclade is finally ready to be enjoyed in the superb setting of Bar André, inspired by the sea and fishermen. Accompanied by homemade fries, it's a true explosion of flavors and, above all, a convivial moment to share! A real treat!

Another shellfish is being celebrated in the region: the oyster !

Mussel éclade: the Charente region in all its simplicity!

Here's another typically Charentais way to enjoy these delicious little shellfish. Éclade de moules (also pronounced églade) comes from the word "éguiade," which in old dialect means "needle attack," referring to the pine needles that form the basis of this ancestral recipe.

Cooking the éclade over a wood fire

A culinary heritage that is passed down from generation to generation

To discover this popular Charente tradition and the recipe made solely from mussels and maritime pine needles, I set my sights on the island of Ré.

Few restaurants today offer this traditional dish on their menu, yet it has been prepared for centuries by fishermen in the Charente region. Originally, this dish was the rustic snack of farmers and shellfish farmers who gathered in the heart of the marshes. The mussels were arranged in a circle directly on the ground, which they covered with pine needles before setting it alight. This is where the other name given to éclade by the older generation comes from: "la terrée".

Along with Chez Marie at the Phare des Baleines (summer only), the restaurant L'Aile de Ré in Bois-Plage is the only one on the island to offer éclade de moules (mussels cooked over a fire). To respect the seasonality of the shellfish, éclade is enjoyed here exclusively between March and mid-December.

On site, in the intimate and maritime setting of L'Aile de Ré, I meet the owners, Julien and Ludivine Enet, by the fireplace in the restaurant to discover this recipe for smoked mussels over a wood fire.

In the fireplace, the mussels are cooked on a bed of pine needles and covered with a pan. This simple preparation infuses the mussels with the flavors of the pine forest. At the restaurant L'Aile de Ré, following Julien 's grandparents' recipe, the chef adds a splash of raspberry vinegar at the end of cooking. Accompanied by the intoxicating aroma of the fireplace, a portion of homemade fries, bread, salted butter from the Charentes region, and of course a glass of local white wine from the Charente, these smoked mussels are a true delight ! There's nothing better for warming up and sharing authentic moments with family or friends during long autumn evenings…