Discovery of Tonnay-Charente and its Suspension Bridge

A link between the Atlantic Ocean and the Charente inland, the Charente Valley boasts a rich past and heritage that is now revealed to the contemplative eye. Located on the right bank of the river, the river town of Tonnay-Charente vividly recounts the fascinating history of the trade in Cognac eaux-de-vie, shipped around the world since the 18th century. Just a stone's throw from the Charente coast, this former official port for exports of the precious spirit, emblematic of the region, has forged an extraordinary destiny for itself. Come and discover it...

Tonnay-Charente: commercial port and historic river stopover

For a getaway, Tonnay-Charente is one of those little detours where it's good to stroll and where you're sure to find an interesting heritage. Dominated by one of the oldest suspension bridges in Europe, this atypical commune stretches lazily along the Charente and can be explored on foot or by bike to fully enjoy its port atmosphere and its superb panoramas. You can't visit the town without following the quays of the river nicknamed by Henry IV the "most beautiful stream in the kingdom" which crosses the former provinces of Angoumois and Saintonge to reach the ocean at Rochefort.

The Charente has always been known for navigation. Since the Middle Ages, this communication route has ensured the economic wealth of the region, particularly with the transport of wine and salt. This activity intensified in the 18th century when the river was canalized to facilitate the transport of salt produced on the coasts of Aunis and Saintonge, as well as the transport of goods to the ocean, such as brandy and wine in barrels, wheat, barley, cut stones, paper and cannons. Tonnay-Charente then played a major role in this transit operated by traditional flat-bottomed wooden boats called "gabarres". Like its large neighbor Rochefort, the city prospered from this very flourishing trade.

Walking along the now restored quays, one can easily imagine the bustle and excitement of this river port, which welcomed more than 150 barges a day , loaded with barrels, grain and other goods. The traffic was such that the merchants of Amsterdam asked for a "rotation for loading the ships"!

We go back in time and can almost visualize the incessant coming and going of the boats that transported the production of Cognac and eaux-de-vie sold on the quays of Tonnay-Charente to travel the entire world, from England to the Far East.

Architecturally, the predominance of old trading houses lends its charm to the riverbanks and the town center. At the corner of Rue de l'Eglise, be sure to admire the famous Maison Girard, built in 1881 to house the offices, warehouses, and distillery of the high-end cognac merchant Etienne Girard.

Although the spirits trade has ceased today, the port of Tonnay-Charente still exports cereals, animal feed, fertilizers, and mainly imports Russian and Baltic conifers. Managed by the Chamber of Commerce, it is twinned with that of Rochefort. Annually, some 900,000 tons of goods still pass through these ports.

The Tonnay Suspension Bridge in Charente, a dizzying experience

Following the marked route from the quays of the lower town , notice some curiosities of Tonnac's heritage : the houses with colorful shutters, the old wine cellars, the fountains, the wash house, the Saint-Étienne church. The weekly market is held on rue Kilmaine every Sunday morning from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

As we stroll through the heart of the city, our gaze inevitably falls on the gigantic bridge spanning the Charente. We therefore head towards the upper town. built on the rocky and limestone escarpment which dominates the right bank of the river, originally developed around an old fortified castle whose remains of the ramparts are still partially visible. You will have to climb a few dozen steps to reach the summit where the famous suspension bridge stands majestically, passable on foot or by bicycle. It has been closed to motor traffic since 1964. This remarkable building claims a heritage importance which resulted in its registration as a historic monument in 1988. From its footbridge, the panoramic views are breathtaking!

This exceptional bridge, with free access, overlooks the Charente River at 23 m above the highest water level. Suffice to say that if you are prone to vertigo, refrain from crossing it!

Addressing the needs of the Charentais who were once obliged to use the ferry to reach the other bank of the river, the bridge was inaugurated on April 21, 1842. At 620 m long, it is one of the oldest suspension bridges in Europe. The deck, 204 m long and 5 m wide, is supported by 51 ogival arches. The views are breathtaking over the town of Tonnay-Charente on the right bank, as well as over the wild and marshy landscapes of the left bank which stretch as far as the eye can see. On the horizon, we see the mouth of the Charente located 27 km away and the meanders of the river.

An imposing monument, incredibly photogenic and a must-see during a stay in Charente-Maritime.

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Article and photos prepared by Lesley Williamson for the Charente Maritime Guide