Brouage, fortified citadel in the heart of the marshes

Charente-Maritime is full of fortified villages that have resisted enemy attacks and those of time, reaching us almost intact. Like a stone star that emerges in the middle of the marshes between Rochefort and the Marennes peninsula, the citadel of Brouage is a remarkable example of preserved military architecture whose old stones exert an irresistible power of attraction. Brouage astonishes and fascinates. It is difficult to imagine that this town was once a port with flourishing trade. Yet, this was the case before the ocean retreated... Head for this charming village, classified among the " Most Beautiful Villages of France "!

Brouage, the salt town

To get to Brouage, the small winding road crosses a kaleidoscope of flat landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see: watercourses, old salt marshes, vast marshes and wet meadows where herds of cattle and horses graze.

The presence of saltworks around Brouage dates back to the Middle Ages, when Brouage was the European capital of "white gold" : salt. This natural resource was once a precious commodity. It was the only way to preserve foods such as meat, fish, and cheese. Renowned for its quality, Brouage salt was coveted throughout Europe, particularly by cod fishermen who set sail for great expeditions to Newfoundland.

Rich and prosperous, the city became the most important seaport in Europe, welcoming more than 200 ships per day from all over France, but also from the Netherlands, England and Scandinavia.

On the quays of Jacopolis sur Brouage, the original name of the city founded in 1555, "one could hear all the languages of Europe," according to the archives. The quantity of salt transiting through its port quickly attracted the attention of those in power.

16th century war port and stronghold

During the Wars of Religion, Brouage became the scene of conflicts between Catholics and Protestants who fought over the citadel until 1578, the year in which King Henry III proclaimed the city a royal town. Jacopolis became Brouage. Surrounded by 2km of ramparts, it was transformed into a stronghold in 1627 under the orders of Cardinal Richelieu, its governor. Reputed to be impregnable, the city housed 4,000 civilian inhabitants defended by 500 to 2,000 soldiers in garrison.

A fortified star, abandoned by the ocean

During the reign of Louis XIV, the fortifications were reinforced by the military architect Marquis de Vauban. However, with the creation of the Royal Arsenal of Rochefort from 1666, the port declined irremediably, and the Brouageais left the town en masse. This was the decline of Brouage.

Ironically, this submersible section of the coastline silted up, and the ocean slowly receded, tide after tide. The city lay dormant for several centuries. A sad fate awaited the largest port on the Atlantic coast, which became a useless fort in the middle of nowhere. The citadel now stands 3 km from the ocean.

A rich heritage to discover on foot

What architectural diversity for such a small town! The citadel proudly bears the marks of its past splendor. Heritage lovers enjoy walking its ramparts, wandering its light-filled streets, passing through its gates, and visiting its many buildings steeped in history...

The ramparts of Brouage are ideal for strolling along the patrol path perched 8 meters high. Punctuated by bastions, turrets and curtain walls, these fortifications offer a unique view of the town, the marshes, the island of Oléron and the island of Aix. The remains of the heritage are revealed, decorated with information plaques: the forges, the cooperage, the Saint Luc and Brèche powder magazines, the arsenal, the icehouse, the latrines, and even the old underground ports, accessible by canals dug into the ramparts.

Today transformed into small shops and artists' workshops, the royal stables housed more than 238 horses in the 17th century as well as a plethora of blacksmiths', gunsmiths' and carters' workshops.

At the entrance to the village through the Royal Gate, a building dominates the horizon: The Food Hall. In Richelieu's project, Brouage was to be equipped with warehouses to store wine, cider, oils, brandy, but also fish, salted meat, wheat, spelt, buckwheat and rye. Built in 1631, this hall was the food granary before being successively used for other functions: a barracks, an annex of the hospital, a prison, a powder magazine. Abandoned in 1885, it was restored and today houses the European Center for Military Architecture as well as an exhibition room dedicated to the history of Brouage.

At the center of the stronghold, the Saint-Pierre de Brouage church, completed in 1608, is characterized by the structure of the framework of the central nave. Similar to a ship's hull, it testifies to the presence of carpenters specialized in shipbuilding. Inside this building, listed as a national heritage site, six of its nine stained-glass windows are the work of the French-Canadian master glassmaker Nicolas Sollogoub. Like a memorial to the origins of New France, the emblematic figure of Brouage is represented: the founder of the city of Quebec, Samuel de Champlain, originally from the village. The floor of the church, meanwhile, is covered with funerary slabs under which lie wealthy 17th ^- century salt traders, soldiers and former governors.

The graffiti on the walls of Brouage are a real curiosity not to be missed on the Royal Gate, the Gate of Hiers and on the latrines of the curtain wall of the Sea. Engraved in the stone by soldiers on guard, they represent ships, coats of arms, animals, women's faces...

Lined with flowers and hollyhocks, the alleys of Brouage form a veritable labyrinth in which one can lose oneself with delight, as a couple, with friends or with family. The village preserves very beautiful bourgeois residences, witnesses of the commercial prosperity of the city at the time. Inspiring serenity and creativity, the village abounds with small boutiques of designers and artisans : jewelry, paintings, clothing, art objects, local products. Cafés, restaurants and terraces joyfully enliven the streets, the opportunity to discover the Charente specialties.

Easy walks to make the pleasure last

To enjoy the unusual landscapes of the Brouage marshes, numerous hiking trails are available to nature lovers on foot or by bike. Ornithology enthusiasts come to observe an incredible diversity of birds. Nearly 150 species find refuge in the marshes and mudflats: herons, egrets, passerines, swans as well as dozens of varieties of migrants. In spring, during the nesting season, you can even see white storks! Don't forget your binoculars.

A wonderful seaside getaway awaits you in Brouage.

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Article and photos prepared by Lesley Williamson for the Charente-Maritime Guide.