Bucolic paddleboarding or canoeing trip on the Rompsay Canal in La Rochelle

With its coastline bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, The maritime city of La Rochelle offers a plethora of water activities for all sports enthusiasts and nature lovers. However, when the sea conditions don't allow it, the Rompsay Canal is an ideal alternative to get a breath of fresh air and find yourself surrounded by nature in the heart of La Rochelle, for a stand-up paddleboarding or canoeing trip!

Discover the Rompsay Canal along the water

A favorite spot for joggers and cyclists, the Rompsay Canal is a true haven of peace that can also be explored on the water. Paddle in hand, standing on my stand-up paddleboard – SUP for those in the know –, accompanied by two friends in kayaks, I decide to go up it from La Rochelle to fully enjoy its calm and peaceful waters, discovering a wild universe just a stone's throw from the city center.

There are no waves or wind here, which makes it easy to glide along for a few hours, although it is quite possible to row to the Pont de Mouillepied in Dompierre-sur-Mer for a day trip. Indeed, 24 km long, this historic canal connects La Rochelle to Marans, crossing the towns of Périgny, Dompierre-sur-Mer, Saint-Ouen d'Aunis and Andilly.

The history of the canal: a commercial failure in the 19th century

If today the canal lends itself perfectly to leisure and relaxation, this ambitious human work is the fruit of a project launched in 1806, the construction of which extended over 82 long years of work until 1888. Second canal of Charente-Maritime by its length of 24km between Marans and La Rochelle, this canal is what is called a junction canal by diversion of the Sèvre Niortaise towards the Atlantic Ocean.

Initially dug to transport goods to the Old Port of La Rochelle, the Rompsay canal was partially put into service in 1875 and connected to the floating dock via the Saint-Nicolas bastion in 1888. However, the volume and traffic planned in barges was never reached, it was a real commercial failure undermined by the arrival of the railway, then gradually left to disuse.

It was not until the 1970s that the 8km linking the Mouillepieds bridge to the Rompsay lock were classified as a "Natural Site" and its banks protected and developed, to the great delight of walkers, cyclists and jogging enthusiasts. On this greenway, the EuroVelo 1 (or Vélodyssée®) and Vélo Francette® cycle paths follow the canal on a marked route to Dompierre-sur-Mer and to the gates of the Marais Poitevin in Marans for experienced cyclists.

3-hour round trip by paddleboard and canoe-kayak

Departing from La Rochelle and Périgny, several specially designed launches on this 8km navigable section allow access to the canal with our boats. If you do not have a canoe, kayak or stand-up paddleboard, a canoe base, located in La Rochelle, just before the Salines bridge, offers equipment rental from April to September. We therefore continue our escapade along the water, passing under bridges and through a long tunnel, with a front row seat to observe the grey herons, coypus, ducks, swans and other web-footed birds that have taken up residence on the banks of the canal.

A real moment of conviviality and relaxation in the shade of the ash trees, elms and lush vegetation that line the canal! 2km further on, the canal becomes enclosed, dominated by cycle paths on either side. After an hour and a half of walking, it is time for us to turn around and head back. No need to be athletic, rowing is easy on this section without current. In places, the water is covered with green duckweed and aquatic plants that give the canal an intimate, almost magical atmosphere.

Pleasant at any time of day, I will return to explore the Rompsay canal by paddleboard at sunset to once again enjoy the gentle sensations of immersion in nature, with a splendid view of the Towers of La Rochelle from the Old Port upon arrival!

Did you like our report? Find more in our Experiences to Live section.

Connect to the Charente Maritime Guide Facebook page and also follow us on Instagram @guidecharentemaritime

Article written by Lesley Williamson for the Charente Maritime Guide