Maison Hurtaud in La Rochelle: six generations of mussel and oyster farmers in the Charente straits

Maison Hurtaud is a family-run mussel and oyster farming business located in Chef de Baie, La Rochelle. For six generations, they have been raising mussels and oysters in the Pertuis Charentais, and have just launched L'Impératrice, a premium mussel intended for fine dining establishments.

Cover photo: ©ASTORYTOTELL.

A family from La Rochelle who live to the rhythm of the ocean

Maison Hurtaud is a leading player in Charente shellfish farming. Based in Chef de Baie, opposite the island of Ré, it produces around 3,500 tonnes of mussels each year, which is almost a quarter of what the Pertuis Charentais produce.

Behind these figures lies, above all, a family story. For six generations, the Hurtaud family has passed down a trade steeped in the tides, precise movements, and keen observation of the sea. Today, under the direction of Laurent Hurtaud, the company remains true to this spirit of tradition.

The fresh perspective of the new generation

This family story continues today with Laura Hurtaud. After working for a long time in Paris in the world of fashion, she joined the family business, where she now manages all the communication.

Her career path exemplifies the concept of passing on knowledge: leaving, discovering something new, and then returning with fresh ideas. Her professional eye in the fashion industry helps to tell the story of the house with a new sensibility and to highlight a profession that remains largely unknown to the general public.

Mussel beds and longlines: two ways of cultivating mussels

Few producers master two farming techniques. Maison Hurtaud, however, combines bouchots and supply chains.

• Mussel beds are stakes planted in the foreshore, which are exposed at low tide. This technique is mainly used on the Atlantic coast and in the English Channel, where the tides regulate the growth of mussels.
• Longlines, on the other hand, are ropes suspended in the open sea. They are more commonly found in the Mediterranean, where the absence of tides favors suspended farming, such as in the Thau lagoon or off the coast of Hérault, but also in some Atlantic locations.

Each method offers its own advantages, and their combination, rare among producers on the Atlantic coast, allows Maison Hurtaud to adapt the breeding to the sites, the seasons and the level of quality sought.

The company also farms oysters, with Joguet oysters. Mussels and oysters share the same philosophy: letting nature take its course and respecting the environment.

Why do the mussels from the Pertuis Charentais have so much flavor?

The answer lies in the territory. North of the Pertuis Charentais, in the Pertuis Breton, the Pointe de l'Aiguillon is located at the confluence of two estuaries: the Lay and the Sèvre Niortaise. The fresh waters of these rivers bring nutrients that mix with those from the ocean.

This combination abundantly nourishes the shellfish, which become plump and develop a delicate, briny flavor. For Laurent Hurtaud, it is this terroir that does most of the work: it is up to the producer to observe, to be patient, and to choose the right moment to harvest.

The Empress, a mussel designed for gastronomy

L'Impératrice is a range of premium mussels intended for fine dining establishments. It was born from a collaboration between Laurent Hurtaud and Joël Dupuch, an oyster farmer in Cap Ferret and creator of the Parc de l'Impératrice oysters. Together, they defined a precise set of specifications, establishing criteria for size, filling, and quality.

The process is based on a double selection.

• At sea, the mussels are spotted at chosen sites, after several weeks of quiet growth.
• On land, they are sorted with a meticulousness that is incomparable to that of classic ranges.

Production remains intentionally limited, as quality takes precedence over volume. Part of this selection is even destined for export, particularly to Switzerland, Italy, and Monaco.

Where and how to enjoy the shellfish from Maison Hurtaud in Charente-Maritime?

Maison Hurtaud is located in La Rochelle. Individuals and professionals can find mussels and oysters there, close to their place of production.

In the kitchen, these mussels lend themselves to all coastal preparations, from marinière to mouclade, not forgetting éclade, cooked under pine needles.

Frequently Asked Questions

• What is Maison Hurtaud? It is a family business of mussel and oyster farmers from La Rochelle, located in Chef de Baie, which has been perpetuating maritime know-how for six generations.
• How many mussels does it produce each year? Approximately 3,500 tonnes, or nearly a quarter of the production of the Pertuis Charentais.
• What farming techniques does she use? She combines mussel beds and longlines, which is quite rare among producers.
• What is L'Impératrice? It is a range of select mussels launched in June, created with oyster farmer Joël Dupuch for fine dining establishments.

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