Getaway to Talmont-sur-Gironde, a fortified town in Charente

Fancy a stroll? Discover the picturesque village of Talmont-sur-Gironde perched on a promontory of the Charente coast, forming a peninsula on the edge of the Gironde estuary. 15km south of Royan, this ancient fortified town, surrounded by ramparts, is classified among “The Most Beautiful Villages of France” and labeled “Small Town of Character” for its remarkable heritage. We walked its small streets and the charming path that goes around the village, offering superb panoramas of the ocean. A salty interlude steeped in history for a guaranteed change of scenery !

Talmont-sur-Gironde, a village that can be visited on foot

The small port of Talmont at low tide

The fishing huts of the village of Caillaux

Arriving at the edge of this medieval fortified town surrounded by fortifications, large parking lots welcome visitors. And for good reason. Made up of small narrow streets lined with old houses, this village of around a hundred inhabitants can be explored on foot to soak up all its charm and serenity. From the parking lot, we reach the small port where sturgeon was once fished for its eggs, the famous caviar, and today meagre, shad, lamprey and elvers. A stop is essential to admire the row of carrelets on the other side of the bay in the village of Caillaux, these wooden fishermen's huts, mounted on stilts linked to the cliff by a pontoon. Talmont-sur-Gironde has some superb examples of these traditional installations typical of the region's coastline that we discover with wonder. An undeniable attraction of the village!

Talmont's fishing huts, a true heritage

We then take the path of the remains of the White Tower towards the church which dominates the village, one of the most beautiful in Charente-Maritime. From the path, superb panoramic views of the ocean, the estuary and the cliffs of Meschers-sur-Gironde are revealed.

The Sainte-Radegonde church and its panorama over the estuary

On the edge of the cliff, adjoining the unusual marine cemetery, the church of Sainte-Radegonde, protector of sailors, is an unmissable treasure of 12th century Romanesque art. Its pure Saintonge style reveals a remarkable architecture : its chevet and its north portal with sculpted decoration, its dome adorned with medieval sculptures, gargoyles and arcades.

We take the time to lose ourselves in the small alleys and to walk the charming streets with old whitewashed houses built very low to limit the wind. We stroll in the craft shops and enjoy chatting with the artists of small independent galleries. The tranquility and the gentle way of life make this village a relaxing place with a friendly atmosphere. It is no surprise that Talmont-sur-Gironde has become the third most visited site in the department, behind the Aquarium La Rochelle and the zoo of La Palmyre. A jewel of Charente heritage, this pretty city on the right bank of the estuary attracts nearly 500,000 visitors each year.

We chose to visit the village in the low season to quietly savor its timeless atmosphere. We return to the port after a few hours of epicurean strolls to witness a striking spectacle : the carrelets in front of the sun as it disappears over the horizon offer a postcard setting! The last rays of day sublimate the landscapes of the Talmont-sur-Gironde coastline with a marvelous palette of fiery colors.

The fishing huts in front of the sunset

The tumultuous history of the fortified town of Talmont-sur-Gironde

Since the Middle Ages, Charente-Maritime has had to face multiple invasions. Many fortifications today bear witness to this bygone era. Originally, Talmont-sur-Gironde was founded by the King of England and Duke of Aquitaine Edward I in 1284. This ancient fortified town, a city of merchants and artisans, overlooking the Gironde estuary, was once a formidable stronghold that had to surround itself with ramparts to protect its inhabitants and its economy. From 1293, Talmont returned to the French fold and since then has been the subject of constant covetousness. During the Hundred Years' War between 1337 and 1453, one of the most famous conflicts of the Middle Ages, Talmont was bitterly contested between the French and the English.

This port village is also known for being a land of pirates. In the 1440s, Talmont was a piracy base from which ships passing through the Gironde estuary were plundered and ransomed!

At the heart of a conflict that greatly affected Charente-Maritime, Talmont fell into the hands of the Protestants in 1563 during the Wars of Religion but was immediately retaken by the Catholics.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Talmont was a prosperous town, living mainly from the activity of its commercial port. A popular stopover for sailors disembarking from the many boats en route to Bordeaux.

Today, this troubled past has given way to peace and quiet. Discovering this isolated village on a piece of land surrounded by the ocean provides a real sense of escape during the low season, away from the main tourist flows.

Talmont perched on the peninsula

Enjoy your walk in Talmont-sur-Gironde!

Did you like this article? Find more on the blog.
Find us by subscribing to the Charente Maritime Guide Facebook page and following us on our Instagram account @guidecharentemaritime

Article and photos prepared by Lesley Williamson for the Charente Maritime Guide